Sometimes being Woodworker’s Journal’s “Field” Editor, I feel like I’m way, way out in some field. What I mean here is, I’m one step removed from the day-to-day feedback we receive in our home office from readers about what we publish. A lot of mail comes in, but generally I don’t get to see it. Broadsoft Toolbar. I work from home, which is several states away. Well, thanks to this blog, I’m getting quite a lot of feedback from you regarding the “” I built for the June 2010 print issue. It seems to be resonating well with many who are looking for a better place to put their miter saws. Lots of you are asking for a Cutting List to help build it.
To download the Cutting List. EDITOR’S NOTE: Due to the enormous amount of interest in this project, we have made the (including the plans for the entire project, the Cutting List, the correction listed below, and the plans for optional Scrap Bins) available as a Downloadable Plan in our online store.
The Paulk Miter Stand #workbench #Paulk #woodworking #DIY.
To purchase and receive the plan immediately! VIDEO: So, thanks for your interest in the project! When I designed it, I was a bit concerned that its overall size would be too big for many shops. That doesn’t seem to be a problem—or you are changing the proportions as needed to fit your space. Two more things in this regard: 1) of your completed Miter Saw Station if you build it. It’s always fun to show nice reader projects both here on the blog and in the “Letters” section of the print magazine.
Your photo might give others a boost to get out there and build one for themselves. 2) There is one mistake in the Sides/Divider Panels drawing on page 42 that I’d like to point out (a reader caught it a while back): the spacing between the two shelf dadoes is 11 1/4″, not 18″ as originally appeared in the print magazine.
Lastly, if there are shop projects you’d like to see us design and build for future print issues, let me know in the comment section below. I’ll be happy to throw them into the collective hopper as we plan for the future. We’re always looking for fresh ideas. Catch you in the shop, Chris Marshall, Field Editor.
Dear Chris, A well thought-out miter station. I am in the midst of redesigning my shop to make more space and decided to sell my radial arm saw in favor of a miter saw. I now have an older DeWalt 12″ compound miter saw (love it, but cross cuts only 8″), but when I saw the new Bosch glide saw, I decided to wait for that one and will build the miter station around it. A typical sliding miter saw needs too much depth clearance. Thanks for a great design. Could you please send the cutting list?
Chris Marshall, I read your article with great interest as I retired recently and decide to put up crown molding in a few rooms. I clamped my compound miter saw to a low painter’s scaffold and build four ancillary support blocks for the over hanging stock. After the project was completed and I’ve toyed with the idea of getting back into woodworking So for the past few months I pondered how I would setup my small shop and what tools would make-up my core pieces. The miter saw was first on my list and I researched many possible work solutions.
I read your article “Ultimate Miter Saw Stand” and it appears to be good starting foundation for my quest. I would greatly appreciate a PDF copy of your project. Thank you for your time and efforts. Adam, Thanks for your kind words and your interest in the project. Check your email for the cutting diagram. Install Openoffice Headless Ubuntu Server. To answer your questions: 1) I used five sheets of maple veneer plywood to build the project, but any cabinet-grade plywood with a nice face would work fine.
2) I finished the station with water-based poly, because it was early spring and I needed to keep the shop closed up and heated. Water-based poly doesn’t smell as bad as oil-based and dries really quickly.
3) I used an 18-gauge brad nailer and 2-in. Brads to nail the face frame to the carcass. You could hand-nail it with finish nails if you don’t have an brad nailer yet, or biscuits instead.
I would definitely go with more than just glue to secure this big face frame in place. 4) You could use bolts and nuts or wingnuts to make the fences removable instead of wood screws, as I used here. Removable fences might actually make this project even more versatile, because you could use those side support areas for other shop uses too. Enjoy the project, Chris •. I have a question on the “doubling” of the plywood panels in the center of the stand. Was this so it would be simpler to essentially build three cabinets, was it required for extra strength, was it so there would be more strength where there were two dados across from each other or some other reason? Just wondering as I looking to put together a materials list for the project and with the 3/4″ back panel it would seem to be very sturdy without the doubling of the panels.
Please forward a cutting diagram to me as well. Thank you very much. You could probably break the unit down into three pieces—the two cabinets for storing offcuts and the center cabinet with doors. My biggest concern would be figuring out how to bring the three together any place on your shop floor and have the tops of all three units still be flush. One advantage to making project as is, is that the support tables never fall out of alignment with one another. If you do make the station more modular, send us some photos to show how you worked it out! Thanks for your interest in the project!
Best, Chris •.