All STIHL gasoline-powered engines can be used with up to a 10% (E10) blend of ethanol in the gasoline/engine oil mix. We also recommend that if a unit will be left unused for more than 30 days that it be stored 'dry.' This means emptying the fuel tank and then restarting and letting the unit run until all the fuel is consumed and the engine stops. For maximum performance and engine life expectancy, we also recommend using STIHL HP Ultra 2-cycle engine oil with built-in stabilizer. Note: STIHL recommends use of fuel with no more than 10% ethanol content. Using fuel with greater than 10% ethanol content may cause damage to your equipment and may void your STIHL warranty. The most common reason is due to too many attempts trying to start the machine in the choke position.
When starting a unit, make sure to follow the starting instructions in your. The manual provides the proper instruction for starting procedures, but there are many conditions that may affect how the unit starts. A good rule of thumb to follow is to remember that when placing the switch control to the full choke setting, more liquid fuel and less air flow into the combustion chamber in order to create a higher chance for ignition. Pulling the rope more than two to three times in this setting may flood the engine. The operator should move the Master Control Lever™ or choke lever from the full choke setting after three to four pulls even if the engine does not fire. Moving the lever to the next setting, the half choke or part throttle position will allow more air into the combustion chamber and help resolve the flooding condition.
A chainsaw is a portable, mechanical saw which cuts with a set of teeth attached to a rotating chain that runs along a guide bar. It is used in activities such as.
The way our units lubricate a chain, most of the oil is distributed around the inside of the bar rails as it is circulated by the oil reservoirs in each drive link of the chain. The amount of oil being circulated inside the bar at any given time can be between.3 and.5 oz. As a general rule of physics, the oil will be pulled down by gravity once the chain stops turning, collecting at the bottom of the bar and seeping through the chain to puddle underneath the bar & chain assembly as well as under the drive sprocket.
The fact that it appears to be continuing to seep after the unit is cut off for several days is owed to the viscosity of the oil and the anti-flinging compound (lithium) mixed with the oil at the refinery. These factors give the oil a very thick consistency, which in turn explains a slower flow rate. This condition is deemed to be normal for any chainsaw with a similar bar & chain lubricating system. If the unit continues to seep oil after a few days, the problem may be the vacuum relief valve located in the side of the engine housing between the oil output hole and the bar stud(s). This valve has an internal spring and ball type arrangement with the ball pressed against the vent hole of the casing of the valve, when the tank develops a vacuum from the normal process of the oil being pumped out. The ball is pulled away from the hole, allowing air to enter into the tank and break the vacuum so that oil can continue to flow to the bar and chain assembly.
Once the vacuum is relieved, the spring pushes the ball back against the hole of the valve casing. Sometimes debris may become trapped between the ball and the hole. This would cause the oil to keep 'weeping' because there must be some measure of vacuum in the tank to keep the oil from flowing freely once the unit is shut down.
More often than not, all one needs to do is to take a small pin or needle and push it into the hole of the valve (identifiable as a small silver disk with a small hole in the center) about 6 or 7 times to loosen the debris. This should re-seal the orifice and keep the oil from seeping from the output hole when the saw is stored. Kickback occurs when the moving saw chain near the upper quadrant of the bar nose contacts a solid object or is pinched. The reaction of the cutting force of the chain causes a rotational force on the chainsaw in the direction opposite to the chain movement.
This may fling the bar up and back in an uncontrolled arc mainly in the plane of the bar. Military Times Guide To Military Installations Worldwide Box. Under some cutting circumstances the bar moves towards the operator, who may suffer severe or fatal injury. Kickback may occur when the nose of the guide bar is pinched unexpectedly, unintentionally contacts solid material in the wood or is incorrectly used to begin a plunge or boring cut. It may also occur during limbing. The greater the force of the kickback reaction, the more difficult it becomes for the operator to control the saw.
Many factors influence the occurrence and force of the kickback reaction. These include chain speed, the speed at which the bar and chain contact the object, the angle of contact, the condition of the chain and other factors. The carburetor comes from the factory with a standard setting. This setting provides an optimum fuel-air mixture under most operating conditions. With most carburetors, it is only possible to adjust the engine idle speed within fine limits.
Download Borland Delphi 5 Completo Incompleto. Quite often adjusting the carburetor will not solve acceleration issues. To find the correct setting for your machine, please refer to your instruction manual. If you do not have a copy of your instruction manual, please go to our where you can download a PDF version. These protective garments contain pads of cut-retardant material designed to reduce the risk or severity of injury to the body parts covered by the pads in the event of contact with a rotating chain. The fibers in the pads provide extra layers of material and are designed to rip apart if they come into contact with the moving chain and to clog the sprocket and stop the chain in certain circumstances.
In some contacts, the pads may stop the chain. In other contacts, the pads will resist the cutting process only for a fraction of a second.
The actual degree of protection afforded will vary with the speed of the chain at the time of contact, the power and torque of the saw, the design of the sprocket and similar factors. Follow the washing instructions. Improper care may destroy cut-retardant properties of the material.
During shipping these pads may become compressed. By washing them prior to use and weekly during regular use, these pads fluff up and offer maximum protection. Only if you plan to 'mothball' your lawn trimmer, or chainsaw for a longer period - say during the winter months - should you pay a little more attention to the topic of 'care.' This will ensure that your equipment, when required, will be ready for action.
To get the equipment ready for winter, clean it first. The air filter, the cylinder fins, the spark plug and the dismantled cutting tool should be checked and cleaned (also see Instruction Manual).
Metal parts should be lightly coated with oil to protect them from rust and corrosion. The spark arresting screen in the muffler should be cleaned or replaced with a new one. The fuel tank should be emptied. Run the engine until the fuel system is dry (Warning! Do not operate the throttle.
Run the equipment only at idle speed until the engine stops!) STIHL recommends the use of STIHL MotoMix ® fuel which is pre-mixed with STIHL HP Ultra synthetic oil. Contains no ethanol and has a storage life of up to two years. STIHL MotoMix ® can be left in the machine during seasonal storage. For winter storage, a dry and, if possible, dust-free and frost-free place would be ideal.
You can save space if you hang the equipment. And remember: standard pump gasoline deteriorates. To avoid problems, only purchase enough fuel that can be used within sixty days unless it is STIHL MotoMix ®. Please refer to the Maintenance Schedule which can be found in the. Note that most brands of new saw chain will not exactly match the shape and fit of a round file radius and is not a defect in the chain. When STIHL saw chain is manufactured, the cutter teeth are shaped to precise angles with highly specialized machines to provide optimum performance of the new saw chain. After the manufacturing process, a simple round file of specific diameter with the appropriate file guide is recommended to help more easily maintain the cutting performance of your saw chain.
While a new saw chain does not exactly match the shape and fit of a round file, a few strokes of the correct file diameter with the appropriate file guide will quickly form the shape of the cutter tooth to match the fit and radius of the file. For instructions on how to sharpen STIHL Saw Chains. Additional information and instructions can also be obtained from your.
Any way to tell when the saw was made using the serial number? I'd be interested in knowing just how old it is.You can go on the Stihl website and in the 'contact us' you can send them your serial # and they will tell you the approximate build date. I bought a used 026 and with the serial #, Stihl said it is an early '90s saw, sure runs good. The difference in the 026 and the 026 PRO is, the PRO has compression release button and adjustable oiler, other than that, same.
You'll like that saw for a long time. I don't know if it is similar, but I have a 028 which I think I bought in 1994 or earlier. It still runs as if it was new, and cut about 6 full cords per year. I take it in to the local shop for a tune up every couple of years. When I bought it the shop owner said 'this will last you the rest of your life'. I was only cutting about 1 cord a year for the first 10 years I had it.
We had a log builder staying at our place and when I got it home he said, 'this will last you the rest of your life'. It has been an amazing saw for me, and I swear it out performs my neighbour's more powerful, and MUCH louder Husky. Then again, I think I'm a little more careful about dirt and rocks, and sharpen my saw more often. So here we are 18 years later, and both still doing not bad. Kind of reminds me of that song, My Grandfather's Clock. I thought the Pro saws had a metal crank case and the regulars had plastic.
I have an 026 Pro and it has a metal or aluminum case.The 026 and 026 Pro (and MS260 / MS260 Pro) differ only in the addition of the compression release and manual oiler. All other mechanicals are the same. The primary difference between Stihl 'occasional use' and 'pro' models is the style of construction of the engine. All odd-numbered saws (in the old numbering system) such as the 021/023/025/029 etc are occasional use and employ 'clamshell' engine construction. All even-numbered saws (again, in the old numbering system) such as the 024/026/028/036 are termed 'pro' models and employ traditional 'jug-on-case' construction. About 10 years ago Stihl revised the numbering system, such that they could append a 'series' designation to the end of the model number. Hence, the 026 became the MS260, which eventually was improved upon and subsequently released as the MS261, and so on.
In the case of the 'new' numbering scheme, if the middle number is odd, it is an occasional use saw with a clamshell engine: MS210, MS230, MS250, MS270, MS290, MS291, etc. Similarly, in the case of the 'new' numbering scheme f the middle number is even, it is a pro saw with a jug-on-case engine: MS260, MS261, MS360, MS362, MS440, etc.
Wrooster ps: Since you are now probably wondering, 'what's a clamshell engine?' , I attach a picture of my little old 021 internals.
You will notice that when looked at 'end on' to the crankshaft, the crank bearings are captured by two mating pieces: the plastic lower housing and the jug/cylinder casting. When taken apart, the two pieces can be thought of as a clamshell.